Sunday, April 10, 2016

Soccer Stadiums

So far I have been to 5 soccer games in 5 different stadiums to see 10 different teams play in 4 different cities (twice in Madrid). This has probably been the highlight of my trip thus far and I am absolutely loving seeing such high caliber soccer life. The atmosphere has been electric and I have really grown my love for soccer even more. To tell you about the games I am going to describe each game by telling location, competition, score, attendance, crowd energy, the caliber of the stadium, quality of play, cool aspect, and why I loved it along with a picture of me there. I've been getting a scarf from every stadium I've been too as well. Some of these comments may be critical, but that is just to give you a feel of it relative to other stadiums. But in reality, all 5 of these games were the best 90 minutes abroad so don't I wasn't loving every second.

Real Madrid vs. Espanyol
Location: Madrid
Stadium: Santiago Bernabeu
Final Score: Real 6 - 0 Espanyol
Attendance: Essentially completely full, which is great considering how terrible the opponent was
Crowd Energy: Every stadium has their diehard fan section. Unfortunately, Real's was on the opposite side of the field from me. Even still, aside from a few powerful chants, I was a little disappointed by the energy. Nevertheless, it was still a million times better than a football game.
Caliber of the Stadium: There are four pillars on the sides of the stadium they make the peasants (like me) walk up to get to their seats. The seats were extremely steep to pack more people in, but, there were nice railings sort of in front of each seat that allowed me to lean forward on something to watch the game. Plus there were heaters.
Quality of play: I mean what can I say. My first time seeing real soccer players do their thing lived up to the hype and more. Well, at least Real Madrid did. Espanyol was fine. The score shows the better side, plus the goals were just so much fun to watch. To top it off, Cristiano Ronaldo (second best player in the world) got a hat trick.
Cool aspect: I went with about 9 other people from my program so it was fun to be the one to organize such a great event!

Paris Saint-Germain vs Lille
Location: Paris
Stadium: Parce des Princes
Final Score: PSG 0 - 0 Lille

Attendance: Horrible. For being one of the most expensive teams in the world in a massive city of soccer lovers in the capital of a country of soccer lovers, I expected every seat to always be filled. Unfortunately, it was not. The only benefit of that is that when it rained (and it did), it was easy to find seats under shelter.
Crowd Energy: Despite the poor attendance, the crowd was amazing! They were chanting the entire time and very powerfully despite the poor performance of their team and the weather.
Caliber of the Stadium:  Pretty disappointing here too. As you can tell from the picture, even though my seats were literally the second row they were not very close to the field because of the stadium shape. Also, the concessions area did not have any stores nor did they have much for food. BUT the bathrooms were huge and really nice
Quality of play: Stellar defense. Horrible offense. The defense played by both sides was definitely better than even Real Madrid's was in the first game, but the offense was really uncreative. Zlatan Ibrahimovic (best player on PSG) did not play so that may have had something to do with it.
Cool aspect: So I went to this game only a few months after the Paris attacks and to say security was rigid is an understatement. First, they gated off about 100 yards away from the stadium and only allowed people in who had a ticket and patted them down. Then you had to go to a specific entrance assigned on your ticket where you were again tightly patted down and metal detected before entering the stadium. In between every group of sections, there were walls erected to separate and compartmentalize everything to not allow any movement. It was a really interesting thing to participate in. The security was great and friendly though and I felt completely safe.

Barcelona FC vs Sevilla FC
Location: Barcelona
Stadium: Camp Nou
Final Score: Barcelona 2 - 1 Sevilla
Attendance: Packed. The stadium was full to the brim and incredibly difficult to find any other open seats. Luckily, somehow, I did find the one open seat next to my two friends who had bought tickets separately (and in a better location). So that was nice.
Crowd Energy: Awesome! Everyone was chanting the entire game. One very cool chant during the game was at the 17:14 minute of each half everyone in the stadium chanted "Viva La Independencia" (Live the Indepence) for about 30 seconds. The reason for this is 1714 was the last year that Barcelona and Catalunya were considered independent before complete incorporation into Spain. Great moment.
Caliber of the Stadium: I mean it's Camp Nou. It is absolutely stunningly beautiful. It is powerful from the outside and on the inside it is clean and very cool. There was a great ambiance of people in the courtyard surrounding the stadium as well and you could tell you were walking into the stadium of one of the most famous in the world.
Quality of play: Stellar. Absolutely stellar. I really wouldn't expect anything less from Barcelona, but Sevilla really showed up as well scoring a brilliant goal to take the lead to start the game. However, I got to see one of the most beautiful things in soccer: Lionel Messi scoring a direct free kick goal. I really will never forget that moment. Barcelona ended up scoring a second goal to take the lead and the game when Pique knocked one in off of some great passing by Messi and Suarez. One of the things I was really able to appreciate watching the game live versus on tv is how the players moved when they weren't "on camera" or directly part of the play. In that respect, watching the trio of Messi Suarez and Neymar is like nothing other.
Cool aspect: This Barcelona team could arguably be the best team ever assembled. Filled with 3 of the top 5 forwards in the world (Messi Suarez Neymar) a world-class veteran midfielder (Iniesta) a slew of stellar defenders (Jordi Alba, Mathieu) including one elite (Pique) a top notch coach (Luis Enrique) and a top notch goalkeeper (Bravo), the team itself is filled with an all-star roster. But combine that with the chemistry and brilliant style of play they use in every game. They make me fall in love with the game every time I watch them play because they are just so smart, so selfless, and so creative every time they touch the ball.

Atletico Madrid vs. Real Sociedad
Location: Madrid
Stadium: Vincente Calderon
Final Score: Atletico 3 - 0 Real Sociedad

Attendance: Pretty good, but not great.
Crowd Energy: Great! Maybe the best energy I have ever heard from a crowd! It was intoxicating to listen to these dedicated fans who came out on a random Tuesday night to watch their team play against a bad opponent. About once every 5 minutes the stadium blew up in an uproar of excitement shouting chants back and forth at each other.
Caliber of the Stadium: The stadium held surprisingly few seats considering that Atletico Madrid is the 3rd largest team in Spain, a country addicted to soccer. The corners of the stadium were not filled with seats, which was curious. What was really cool about the stadium, however, is that the hallways under the seats where concessions and stuff are does not have a wall on the other side so it's like a balcony looking outside of the stadium. I don't know why but I really liked that.
Quality of play: Atletico is one of the most underrated teams in Europe, especially this year. They have an excellent coach, solid players mixing a few stars with a consistent strength throughout and stellar teamwork. They won the game handily.
Cool aspect: I think this was the only stadium I went to wear alcoholic beer wasn't sold. They did sell non-alcoholic beer which seems ridiculous as a concept to me. Other funny thing was the line for the men's bathroom at halftime was about 4 times the length of the women's. I guess you can tell who is attending more games.

Manchester United vs. Manchester City
Location: Manchester
Stadium: Etihad Stadium (Manchester City)
Final Score: United 1 - 0 City (!!!!)
Attendance: Literally packed. I bought my ticket online for an ungodly amount of money (over 220 pounds) to get the "Best Available" as the ticket website described it. I figured, hey maybe I'll get placed in some random section in the 2nd tier. Nope. First, my seat is in the third tier. I get up their look at my FF row then at the row I entered at: "C". So I climb. I keep going keep going until I am at the 2nd highest row in the entire stadium. I am a little baffled that this is the "Best Available" but hey at least I'm not in the last row, right? Wrong. I was actually in row EE and someone came and made sure I knew I was in "the wrong seat buddy". Anyway. Literally highest spot in the stadium because I literally couldn't see a seat open closer.
Crowd Energy: Thunderous the entire game. I have been to Wisconsin football and Wisconsin basketball games. I have been to Stanley Cup playoff games and the Final Four. I have been to Bears and Cubs and more games and nothing compares to this energy. The energy I am referring to, though, is the Manchester United VISITORS section. The Manchester City fans were loud and engaged, but all of the energy came from Manchester United all of it. They were relegated to a small corner of the stadium for which they were allowed to have fans, but that small section was 2000 times louder than the rest of the stadium. I was so proud of my fellow supporters and would have given anything to be inside that section. They are the reason why I love Manchester United and love football (soccer).
Caliber of the Stadium: I have to give credit where credit is due and say Etihad may be the prettiest stadium I have ever watched a game in my life. The stadium appears sort of like a giant sailboat with kind of stems coming out of the ground to support the stadium with wire. It is beautifully designed with no bad seats in the arena. The field is perfect and the views from outside the stadium were outstanding as well.
Quality of play: It's the Manchester Derby, it's impossible to expect anything but excellence. It really is honestly incredible the level of soccer these guys play at. I was especially impressed with my boys in red, Manchester United. Entering the game a few places down in the standings, Manchester United really outperformed City for almost the entire game. They had many chances on goal, played exceptional defense, and really controlled possession throughout the match. From United, I was extremely impressed with the young guys on the team: Martial, Rashford, and Lingard are all incredible talents that have outstanding chemistry together. It was a treat to watch them play and I am excited for the future of United as long we hold onto these players. Unfortunately, my favorite player from childhood and my favorite on United, Wayne Rooney, was still injured so I could not see him play. Don't worry, I will one day.
Cool aspect: Okay, first, before I went to the game I went to England's National Football Museum and toured Old Trafford, Manchester United's stadium. Unfortunately, trying to pack so much into my day meant I did not get to experience either museum to it's fullest. BUT, I did get a full tour of Old Trafford which was honestly a dream come true for me. Every single aspect of the stadium is exceptional. I honestly felt like I was visiting my Mecca because I was visiting the place that I fell in love with soccer rooting for. The fact that stadium holds the most in the EPL, decorations and ambience unlike any other (some things include multiple signs saying how Manchester United is a religion (which it is) and the national flag of every player on the team flying at the top of the stadium), and the pitch which was honestly the nicest I have seen in my life were all unforgettable aspects.
Other cool aspect: So as you can guess this is a huge rivalry and that was evident especially towards the end of the match. United had come in and won in City's home field and the City fans were not too happy about that and of course United fans were keen to rub it in their face. So, the entire game there was a string of security guards covering every inch of the fan section between the two side. After the game, they were especially important as there was evidently fighting and shouting going on between the two sides. I thought it was cool to watch, but then I left and realized it had just started! Outside the stadium, the road was lined with policeman separating the two groups onto opposite sides of the street for over a mile and a half of walking. While walking towards the bus I saw 5 or 6 people get arrested, 3 fights break out, 10+ shouting matches between people and cops on horses, and one guy get completely run over by a policeman on a horse. The cops treated the game and the tension as a really dangerous matter and were always barking orders angrily and urgently.
Bonus picture: so after Man U won, I stayed late to really soak in the victory. While I was waiting, a Japanese man (which I only mention because I think it culturally explains the reason for this story), asked me to take a picture of him, but "just his head" which was strange but I didn't think too much of it. After I took it he asked me if I wanted one and I realized this was an opportunity to take a picture in my Manchester United jersey I wore underneath my clothes for the game for fear of starting a fight or getting kicked out. So I pull off all of my clothes and pose for the picture and the picture below is what comes out. He literally only captured my head and not a single part of my body wearing the jersey. It was pretty disappointing but makes for a funny story in my book.


Spanish word of the day: culo - ass

Friday, April 8, 2016

Shoot. Forgot to do this blog thing. Here's until Spring Break

OKKKAAAYYYY SOOOO I definitely should have been more regular about updating this. However, I was not. So here is what I am going to do: I am going to make a few posts in a row with a few different topics and then try to actually do this weekly. Cool? Cool. Not like you really have a choice.

So I will dedicate this to what I have been up to while in Spain.

First, school:

In Madrid, I am attending a University called Universidad Complutense de Madrid which is the biggest school I have ever seen in my life. It has over 80,000 students and 26 "schools". Some famous alumni include the ex-King of Spain, the leader of one of the governing political parties (who was also a professor before entering politics), among many others. For some reason, the hallways are colder than it is outside but the classrooms are super hot which has to be the most illogical form of heating a building I have heard of. So I am taking 3 classes taught by professors from the university but filled only with Americans from various schools (although my program is the biggest there). This is called Reunidas and all classes are in Spanish. The format is more similar to what it would be like to take classes in the US but with Spanish professors. I am taking European Political Systems, Modern Latin American History, and Spain in Globalization.

Beyond that, I am taking two classes with the rest of the Spaniards at the school which is crazy because it's literally a professor teaching like she normally does without paying attention to the foreigners. There I am taking World Geography and Social Criticism.

tl;dr. Interesting observations:

  • European education system is a lot more strict than in America. You pick your major once you get to school as a freshman and there's not really any going back. It is a set 4-year schedule with practically no variation. You don't get the "liberal arts" education of breadth that the US loves so much.
  • Spanish professors always show up late to teach like 10-15 minutes after official start time but then if you walk in 1 minute after them they call you out in front of the entire class
  • EVERYONE USES LOOSE LEAF GRAPH PAPER. It's horrible. I miss the smart, logical line paper of the US so much
  • There is a lot of focus on reading done outside of the class. The professor gives everyone a bibliography of 30 or so books and sort of expects you to read them (I don't whoops)
  • In Spanish classes, they rarely have a powerpoint or use a board or anything. They just sit at their desk and talk at you. And everyone takes notes on every word spoken.
  • Attendance is mandatory
  • All of the classes for a major are in one or two buildings. You're not walking all around campus to get to class
Next, my homestay:

For the first month while I was here I stayed with a lovely Spanish woman named Victoria and her live-in maid (for something like 40 years) Fermina. It was an incredible experience. They fed us for breakfast and dinner which was extremely delicious. I spoke to her in Spanish every day and was forced to practice speaking as much as possible which was a good challenge. Victoria is an elder woman so she spent a good chunk of her life living under Fransisco Franco, the Spanish dictator of the same breed (although not nearly as bad as) Mussolini and Hitler. But while both of these dictators were killed in WWII, Franco kept power until his death in Spain. Then after he died everyone in Spain was like "well, let's do this democracy thing now" without anyone putting up a fight. Anyway, even though he was a brutal dictator she says that she missed the time under Franco and supported what he did which is so interesting to hear someone say. Also, she has connections to Spain's Department of Defense and was able to secure a military escort for when her daughter went to the Central African Republic. 

Observations about culture in Spain:
  • Everyone always wears shoes all of the time. Spaniards have like a foot phobia so you can't be barefoot or even in socks. and no, open toe sandals don't count.
  • Also, everyone always wears pants even when it's warm.
  • In fact, Spaniards are incredibly seasonal about their weather. It could be 80 degrees but if it is still mid-March, they will wear a down jacket because "it is still winter"
  • They have what could essentially be considered 5 meals a day. First, breakfast is mostly like toast or a neopolitano (more on that later), then there's almuerzo (which sort of translates to lunch, but isn't what they consider their main midday meal) which clocks in around 11:30 or 12 if you are hungry, after is comida (which translates to food, but is their "lunch) which is an hour or two long event (occurs during siesta) where people meet up with their friends and really make a lot out of the experience, in the afternoon there is a "bocadillo" or snack, finally there is dinner which is smaller than lunch and usually means meeting up with more friends for tapas for another hour or two at around 9 PM. I'll talk about food later.
  • Spaniards are always wearing pants. Unless they are participating in an athletic event, pants are the only clothing
  • Another note on dress: Spaniards will dress pretty nice to go to school (when Americans will just put on whatever clothes), then when they go out they wear like a sweatshirt or a polo with a ridiculously large logo on it (when Americans will wear a sweater with a button down and khakis and girls the equivalent)

Okay, food.

Yes. Food in Spain and in all of Europe (except the British Isles) is one million times better than food in the United States. Like not even a question. I have eaten tapas every chance I can get and it is a lovely experience without question. My personal favorites are croquettes. Which are fried balls stuffed with potato, cheese, and a meat, usually ham. Speaking of ham, it is everywhere here and I love it. There are so many delicious ways to prepare it and serve it that I can't stop trying it. In addition, a common trend in Spain and throughout Europe is all you can eat, made to serve asian food and it is super delicious and pretty cheap (10-12 euros for like 15 small dishes). Also, there is a really good Mexican place called Tierra which I go to way too often.

Thoughts on food:
  • Pretty much every place you go to get beers at night will serve you free tapas
  • El Tigre is the best place for it because you get a cheap big beer with a huge plate full of tapas for only 5 euros
  • Spaniards are suprisingly OBSESSED with bread. Like every meal will come with just a thing of bread and sandwiches are almost more bread than they are content. 
  • Also, as some people may know Spaniards are also obsessed with olive oil. It's used in essentially every dish and everyone is stuck up about it.
  • Neopolitanos are these little pastries filled with chocolate and the best breakfast ever
  • There is a law in Spain where every restaurant is required to select a portion of their menu and serve it as a three+ course meal including desert and a drink for a good price (usually 10-12 euros). It is called a menu del dia and it is amazing
  • Other great Spanish goods: paella, iberian ham, pork loin, spicy potatoes, empanadas, and churros with chocolate
Other comments on Madrid
  • The metro system here is the best I have ever been to. It is incredibly cheap, super clean, wide train cars, constantly arriving at the station, always open until 1:30 AM, and trips to the airport are included in the cost of the monthly metro card (which is only 20 euros)
  • Madrid is definitely the most business city in Spain.  Tons of different companies have headquarters here, there is a solid startup scene, and there are I think the only 4 skyscrapers in spain here. 
  • Some great tourist attractions include some super pretty parks, the Prado Museum (Spain's national gallery), El Escorial (Spain's Versailles), a day trip to the mountains for hiking or skiing, the national palace, and another assortment of views parks and museums

That's all for now.

Spanish word of the day: asustar - to scare. This word brought to you by me getting scared by a beagle while running in the park.